Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco, Calif.

Lots of places have opened in the Mission since Delfina unlocked its gates in 1998, but few have surpassed it. Owners Anne and Craig Stoll financed the restaurant with their credit cards and a bank loan. Today they own four pizzerias and nearby Locanda, a Roman-inspired restaurant. The seasonal Italian menu includes signatures and newer dishes such as swordfish with lentils, grilled chicories and salsa verde. The boisterous dining room spans two storefronts brought together with hardwood floors and hanging lights made from sandblasted glass beakers.

Specialties: Spaghetti with plum tomatoes, garlic and olive oil; tripe alla Fiorentina; grilled calamari with white beans; roast chicken; panna cotta.

Prices: $15-$28 (plus $1.50 per person S.F. surcharge)

Noise rating: Noise Rating: FOUR BELLS

Vitals: 3621 18th St. (near Guerrero Street), San Francisco; (415) 552-4055. www.delfinasf.com. Dinner nightly. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.